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Tanzania Safaris

The Mkata Floodplain: Mikumi’s Open Grassland

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Its actual name is the Mkata Floodplain

The open grassland that makes Mikumi worth visiting is called, by the park authority, the Mkata Floodplain. TANAPA’s own park record says Mikumi is “particularly renowned for the Mkata Floodplain”, and that is the name a guide will use and the name on park material. “Mikumi Floodplains” is a convenience that has grown up in itineraries; it refers to the same place, and asking for the Mkata will get a faster answer at the gate.

Mikumi, in TANAPA’s account, takes its name from a nearby village, itself named for the borassus palm. The floodplain takes its name from the river.

Why an open plain matters more than a bigger park

The case for the Mkata is sightlines. On a floodplain the grass is short, the horizon is long and the herds are in the open rather than in cover, so a vehicle picks up animals in minutes rather than hours. That is precisely what a two- or three-day trip needs, and it is why a park a few hours from the coast can compete at all with parks that take a flight to reach.

TANAPA lists four of the Big Five on the plain and its margins — elephant, buffalo, lion and leopard — with African wild dog as a rare sighting, alongside eland, greater kudu and sable antelope, and large herds of zebra, wildebeest and giraffe working the grass and the acacia savanna behind it. Lions are frequently seen along the roadside verges and on the kopjes that break the plain. In the dry season, roughly June to October, TANAPA flags the floodplain as where the wildlife concentrates.

Two bird numbers, from two government bodies

It is worth knowing that the published figures disagree. TANAPA gives Mikumi over 400 bird species. Morogoro Regional Secretariat says the bird population “increases to 300 species during the rainy season” as migrants from Europe and Asia join the residents. Both are government sources and they cannot both be a total.

The same two bodies also disagree about the park itself: TANAPA gives its area as 3,230 square kilometres after the 1975 expansion, while the regional secretariat gives 4,471. Neither figure is corrected here; both are reported, with the caution that any area or species count quoted for this park should be attributed to whoever published it. For birding purposes the useful statement is the uncontested one: the mix of floodplain, pans, wetland margin and acacia woodland in a compact area is unusually productive, and the dry-season pans concentrate waterbirds as reliably as they concentrate mammals.

Using the plain

Early and late are when it works; the middle of the day on an open floodplain is hot, flat light and not much movement. Mikumi is one of the few Tanzanian parks on TANAPA’s published tariff for night game drives, which is a genuine differentiator and is best used over open ground like this. Guided walking must be with an authorised ranger or guide, and off-road driving is restricted to protect the habitat.

The comparison with the Serengeti is made locally. It is about the look of the plain, not its scale, and a traveller who arrives expecting the scale will be disappointed. A traveller who wants genuine open-plain game viewing at the end of a morning’s drive should come and not apologise for it — the case the Mikumi guide sets out.

91 SAFARIS, ONE PLACE

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