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Tanzania Safaris

Makutani Palace, Kilwa Kisiwani

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Built when Kilwa’s fortunes briefly came back

The Makutani Palace stands near the beach on the north-western corner of Kilwa Kisiwani, across the channel from Kilwa Masoko. Most descriptions of it in circulation are vague, and neither of the two UNESCO documents that define the World Heritage property names it at all — the listing and the 1980 evaluation both itemise the Great Mosque, Husuni Kubwa, Husuni Ndogo, the Gereza and “an entire urban complex”, and leave the Makutani inside that last phrase.

The site’s integrated management plan for 2025 to 2035 is much more specific, and it is the source worth going by. It calls the Makutani an impressive and complex structure dating mainly to the eighteenth century, built at a time when Kilwa’s fortunes briefly revived, with a large enclosure wall surrounding an area where fifteenth-century houses had stood.

Why that dating matters

It places the Makutani outside the period everything else on this island is famous for. Kilwa’s great age was the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries; the Portuguese took the island in 1505 and the decline began. The Makutani belongs to a later, thinner revival two and a half centuries after that, and it is built over and around the remains of the medieval town rather than beside them.

That makes it the most legible evidence on the island for the part of Kilwa’s thousand-year occupation that nobody writes about. It also explains its condition: it is much younger than the mosques, and the plan lists it among the structures in a good state of conservation.

What is around it

The Makutani mosque stands on the northern side of the palace — fifteenth century, with pillars, a wall and a standing mihrab. The Small Domed Mosque, also fifteenth century, lies between the Makutani and the Great Mosque, and is worth the detour for the imported Persian fritware bowls set into the plaster of its domes. The plan records that UNESCO’s Dar es Salaam Cluster Office financed the rehabilitation of the Makutani Palace, which is why it is in the state it is.

Condition and threats

The management plan names the Makutani’s foundations among those affected by wave action along the island’s northern shoreline, alongside the Gereza Fort, Malindi Mosque, Husuni Kubwa and the Cemetery Mosque, and sets a target of eliminating the effects of wave and tide scouring by 2028. Surface stabilisation against weathering, wind erosion, rainwater and plant growth is a separate target for 2027. The whole property spent the decade from 2004 to 2014 on the List of World Heritage in Danger.

Seeing it

The Makutani is close to the jetty and the Gereza rather than out at the Husuni Kubwa end, so it costs almost nothing in walking to include it. The management plan’s own proposed visitor route on the island runs from the Makutani through the Gereza and Malindi Mosque and the jetty area to Husuni Kubwa, which is a reasonable order to walk it in. Access is by boat and guide arranged in Kilwa Masoko. See archaeological tours.

Common questions

How old is it?

Mainly eighteenth century, according to the site’s 2025 management plan, standing over an area where fifteenth-century houses were. That makes it several centuries younger than the mosques and palaces it sits among.

Is it named in the World Heritage listing?

No. Neither the current description nor the 1980 evaluation names it. It falls inside the “entire urban complex” both documents refer to, and the national management plan treats it as one of the property’s headline monuments.

Is it worth the stop?

It is on the way, it is well preserved, and it is the one building on the island that tells a story other than the medieval one. Nobody travels to Kilwa for it; nobody sensibly skips it.

88 SAFARIS, ONE PLACE

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