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Tanzania Safaris

Dongwe: A Quiet Stretch of Zanzibar’s South-East Coast

Home  /  Dongwe: A Quiet Stretch of Zanzibar’s South-East Coast
A long empty beach of very pale sand under a heavy grey and blue sky, with a dense line of palms along the shore and calm water to the left.

Photograph by Roberto Faccenda from Canale CN, Italy, licensed under CC BY-SA 2.0

Where Dongwe is

Dongwe is a stretch of shore on the south-east coast of Unguja, between Bwejuu to the south and the Michamvi peninsula to the north. It is largely given over to small resorts and is very quiet outside them.

There is no village centre to speak of and very little that is specific to Dongwe rather than to the coast it belongs to. That is honest rather than dismissive: people stay here precisely because nothing happens, and a page that manufactured attractions for it would be doing nobody a service.

The tide

Dongwe works the way this whole coast works. A wide reef flat separates the beach from the reef edge, and the island’s tidal range — close to a metre at neaps, over three metres at springs — empties it twice a day.

At high water it is a shallow warm lagoon and swimming is straightforward. At low water the sea withdraws across exposed sand, seagrass and rock, and what is left is ankle deep. Swimming is a high-water activity, and because high water arrives roughly fifty minutes later each day, the usable hour moves across your stay.

If being able to swim whenever you like is more important than quiet, the northern tip of the island at Nungwi and Kendwa is where that happens. If it is not, low water here is a genuinely good hour for walking the flat: starfish, brittle stars, sea cucumbers, hermit crabs and juvenile fish stranded in pools. Wear something on your feet, walk around the seaweed plots rather than across them, and know when the tide turns before setting off. The beach holidays guide covers the coast in full.

What runs from here

Everything on this coast is within a short drive. Kitesurfing is concentrated at Paje and Jambiani to the south, which is where the schools, rental and rescue cover are. Sea kayaking works on the lagoon at high water, and sandbank trips, snorkelling and diving all run from the coast with a transfer.

Seaweed is farmed on the flats here as elsewhere on the east coast; the seaweed farm tours guide covers the industry and how to visit it honestly. Michamvi, a short way north, is where east-coast guests go for sunsets over water, since this coast faces the wrong way for them.

The Jozani-Chwaka Bay national park, with the red colobus forest and the Pete-Jozani mangrove boardwalk, is a short drive inland — covered in the forest walks and primate watching guides.

Practical notes

Reef shoes for the flat: urchins in the rubble, sharp shell and coral fragments, stonefish camouflaged in the shallows.

Quiet means few places to eat outside the hotels and nothing much within walking distance. Transport needs arranging rather than assuming. The guide to reaching Zanzibar and getting across it covers the ferry, the flights and what an island transfer actually costs in time.

Beachwear on the hotel beach, shoulders and knees covered on the road and in the villages either side.

Rainfall is bimodal: long rains, masika, about March to May, when a good number of operations close for part of the season; short rains, vuli, about October to December. The seasonal guide to Zanzibar and the coast sets that calendar out in full.

Common questions about Dongwe

Can I swim at Dongwe?

At high water, yes. At low water the reef flat drains and the sea is a long way out. The swimmable hour shifts roughly fifty minutes later each day.

Is there a village at Dongwe?

Not in the sense that Jambiani or Matemwe have one. It is mostly small resorts along a stretch of shore, and very quiet outside them.

What is near Dongwe?

Bwejuu, Paje and Jambiani run south along the same coast and the Michamvi peninsula is a short way north. The national park is a short drive inland. Everything here involves arranged transport.

No operator on the marketplace currently lists a safari to Dongwe.

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